This made Bustergrimes feel Alive.

675 views and 7 inspires.

When I was about 17 I bought a second hand board and wetsuit and drove to my nearest beach as often as possible. Even though I was terrible to begin with I knew I could pick it up and now after 20 years of extremely sporadic effort I can finally say I can surf.

It's so relaxing. Simply bobbing up and down in the swell is nice enough - you don't even need to catch a wave. When you do though it feels like you're flying, gliding over the water effortlessly.